Metro Checks In to Malvern Hills Lodge, a luxury holiday cabin in Worcestershire that’s perfect for a romantic winter getaway.
Watching the rolling hills and meadows whizz past from the train to Great Malvern, I realise there are only two things I know about this West Midlands town.
The first is that it’s famous for its crystal-clear spring water that Queen Victoria and Queen Elizabeth II reportedly wouldn’t travel without.
The second is that it is the birthplace of another British queen – X Factor star Cher Lloyd. I have Swagger Jagger playing through my headphones to psych me up for my stay at the secluded Malvern Hills Lodge.
As the train pulls into the quaint Victorian station complete with ironwork canopies and stained glass, I breathe in the crisp country air. It’s a welcome change from London, which is just two and a half hours away.
What’s the vibe? Paint us a picture
After a short 15-minute taxi from the station, my partner Matt and I are greeted at the property gate for check-in by Lois, who owns Malvern Hills Lodge with her husband, Rich.
The taxi drives up a steep, rocky road to the top of a hill, where we’re ushered through a clearing of trees ringed by a wooden fence.
The lodge appears in the distance like a lighthouse shrouded in mist, at the end of a short cobbled path next to a paddock of grazing cows.
As we walk through the gate and down a winding staircase, we pass a giant swing-seat, a pizza oven, and the lodge’s two main attractions perched on an elevated deck – the wood-fired hot tub and sauna.
After getting settled in, we pour a couple of glasses of red wine and whip out a board game to play in the living room by a cosy fire. At bedtime, I’m eager to get a glimpse of an unpolluted starry sky.
I open the room’s skylight by turning a cog above the bed. I can’t think of anything more peaceful than watching the constellations as I drift off to sleep.
What about the facilities?
After a wash in our enormous rainfall shower, I beeline to the aforementioned hot tub and sauna, which require a bit of work to get going.
You need to fill up the tub, light both fires (which come stacked with wood and kindling), and then top up the logs every half an hour.
In between setting this up, we take advantage of the fully-fitted kitchen – complete with a kettle, toaster, gas hob stove top, and coffee machine – to fry a full English breakfast with the eggs and bread provided (plus bacon I bought on the way).
Metro’s latest hotel reviews
- This is what it’s really like to sleep in a snow hotel
- Dishoom’s Permit Room: London’s most exciting hotel spin-off in years
- The ‘decadent’ all-inclusive Turkish hotel that’s fit for royalty
- Oxford’s new hotel in one of the world’s oldest department stores
- Once the food is settled and both the sauna and hot tub are properly heated (don’t worry if it sounds daunting, there are full instructions both during check-in and in an extensive guest information book), it’s time to get in. Starting with the sauna, I pour pine-scented water over hot coals and soak in the steam.
We manage about 15 minutes before diving under a quick cold shower and running to the hot tub. With a glass of wine pre-poured and waiting, I submerge myself and take a deep breath out. Bliss.
I wish I could stay in the hot tub forever, but it ends up being a balancing act to keep the water temperature where we want it, so it’s time to drain the tub and retreat inside. After another quick shower, I find a reading nook in the bedroom and curl up with a book.
Other on-site facilities include full central heating, broadband, a music system, portable speakers, and a radio. A travel cot and high chair are available upon request.
Can you eat and drink at the lodge?
Guests receive a welcome hamper of fresh bread, eggs, milk, and juice, alongside essentials such as sugar, tea, coffee pods, oils, seasonings, flour, and yeast.
There’s also a cloche-like ceramic container with a homemade lemon and aubergine cake, which is surprisingly delicious for a combination I would never have thought of.
As for groceries, guests are encouraged to stock up with food supplies for their stay, as the nearest shop is a five-minute drive (or an hour-long walk). If you’re in need, you can make for the nearby town of Ledbury, which has a selection of supermarkets and a 24-hour petrol station
For dinner, we try Faun in Malvern, which is a newly opened wine bar in the middle of town.
Sharing a bottle of Cheverny Rouge 2023 in the cosy candle-lit bar, we order a charcuterie board, burrata, mackerel paté, and the standout – Gordal olives, which are large and green with a slight kick.
We can’t pass up dessert, and it doesn’t disappoint, particularly the Basque cheesecake with blueberries, which I’m told is a favourite at Faun’s bakery and cafe just up the road.
How much does it cost?
Malvern Hills Lodge has a minimum two-night stay midweek and three nights over a weekend.
A two-night midweek stay during low season starts at £420, and a three-night weekend stay rises to £785 in high season. Five-day and week-long stays are also available on request.
As for trains, it’s £70 return from Paddington to Great Malvern with GWR or first-class for £110.
